Five days in the west of Scotland.

Day one: Monday 5 September 2011
I had set off from home at 6-15am to get to Lancaster station in good time for the 7-30 train to Glasgow. Half way there the heavens opened, giving me a good soaking which meant sitting in a damp patch on the train for just over two hours! The forecast was for more rain and gales moving in later in the day. With a similar forecast for the remainder of the week I wasn't sure if I was really looking forward to this little trip!
I couldn't believe it as the train pulled out of Penrith station, the sun made an appearance, with plentiful patches of blue sky; surely this won't last? It did though, and arriving in sunny Glasgow at 9-45  I rode the short but very busy section of road to join the cycle path along the River Clyde. Once on the cycle path (NCR7), it was traffic free all the way down to within spitting distance of the Arran ferry at Ardrossan. I had missed the 12-30 ferry so had to wait around for the 3-30 one - a good excuse for a cafe stop.
At the allotted time I boarded the CalMac 'Caledonian Isles' under threatening grey skies. Had my luck run out already? Not at all! Blue skies and warm sunshine welcomed me to the beautiful island of Arran.
The 17 mile ride down the east coast from Brodick was a real pleasure. Quiet, pothole-free roads undulate, first through the pretty village of Lamlash with views to nearby Holy Island, then on through Whiting Bay to the campsite at Kildonan. All the way there were spectacular sea views across to the Ayrshire mainland. And, to top it all, the sun was still shining and no sign yet of the threatened strong winds.
Checking in at the campsite, the friendly Yorkshireman who manages the site advised pitching my tent behind a low wall - he had seen the forecast too! He also said that if things got really bad in the night, the dayroom would be left unlocked so I could take refuge in there.
It was late evening by the time the bad weather arrived, but by then the tent was up, I had eaten, and enjoyed an evening of folk music in the pub next door. Oh, and a couple of wee drams of Scotch to keep me warm in the night. Well, you can't come to Scotland and not support the local industries can you?

On the ferry leaving Ardrossan.

Arrived in Brodick in the sunshine!

Seal Shore campsite, Kildonan.

Kildonan beach from my tent.

Day Two: Tuesday 6 September 2011
The dayroom wasn't needed!  The wind was certainly gale force and there had been some heavy downpours in the night, but inside my one-man tent all was snug, dry and warm. And the whiskeys helped me sleep well! The rain had stopped by the time I ventured out at 7am so, after some breakfast I managed to pack the tent away almost dry.
This campsite is in such a fantastic location, right by the beach and overlooking the tiny island of Pladda with it's lighthouse, and further on the spectacular Ailsa Craig.
Today's riding was up the west coast of the island and, although the sky was blue and the sun was out, I was in the middle of an Atlantic gale! Luckily it was not a head wind, but mainly coming in from the sea on my left. So, braced against the weather I made my way slowly up the coast, passing through Lagg and Sliddery, Torbeg and Tormor, Pirnmill and Thundergay, before arriving at the northern outpost of Lochranza.
Arriving in the village from this side, the first thing you come to is the terminal from which the small ferry takes cars and passengers across to the mainland at Kintyre. A few cars and a van were waiting hopefully, but the sign said all services were suspended until further notice - to be reviewed in two hours. The wind was playing havoc with ferry services all over Scotland, with only a few of the larger vessels venturing out to sea.
It was now only 1pm and I had thought of going over to Kintyre today, but the wind put paid to that idea. It had started to rain as well and the sky was getting darker and darker. I rode up to the campsite which is at the other edge of this small village, passing the Lochranza Youth Hostel on the way. When I got to the campsite the rain had come on heavier so a quick about turn and I was very soon warm and dry in the Youth Hostel. And what a location for a hostel, right overlooking the sea and the castle, with red deer and red squirrels in abundance, right in the garden!
After a shower and change into dry clothes I had a walk up to the distillery, but all tours were cancelled as the tour guide couldn't get there from the mainland because of the cancelled ferries! So, after a walk around the village, finding a butcher's shop at the back of a house and buying some sausages for tea, I was back in the comfort of the hostel making an early meal. With nothing much to do, and foul weather outside, it was an early night after some good conversation with fellow guests - Dutch, Belgian, and Canadian. Oh and a couple of Brits too!

Morning start from the campsite. Pladda and Ailsa Craig behind.

The pretty coastal village of Blackwaterfoot.

Lochranza Youth Hostel

Stormy evening light over Lochranza Castle.

Day Three: Wednesday 7 September 2011
Although still grey and wet, the morning dawned windless, so the ferry will be running! After breakfast, a short ride down the road and I was riding down onto the car deck of the 'Loch Tarbert', and soon heading off under very gloomy skies for the distant shores of Kintyre.
Lady luck must surely have been with me this week as, within five minutes of docking at Clonaig, the sun made a welcome return! And that was how it stayed for the remainder of the day, unlike back home where continuous rain had caused widespread flooding
I had thought of riding right down to the lighthouse at the Mull of Kintyre, but not having been able to get back over to the mainland yesterday afternoon put paid to that idea. Instead I pedaled northwards to Tarbert where I had a lunch stop. What a lovely little fishing port Tarbert is. Brightly coloured buildings around the harbour and great views along Loch Fyne. I spent well over an hour sitting by the harbour watching the comings and goings of fishing boats as well as pleasure boats.
Loch Fyne is a massive sea loch stretching 40 miles from Bute right up to Inverary - my target for the day. The road hugs the shoreline up to Lochgilped and is very pleasant for cycling along. Despite the sun being out, I was drenched by a sudden downpour at Lochgilped. It just came out of nowhere - icy cold and lots of it, just like a bucket of iced water being thrown over me - not pleasant!
The next 24 miles meanders through forests and along the shore of the Loch until finally reaching Inverary.
I couldn't find a campsite at Inverary although I am sure there is one somewhere. Having stayed previously at the Youth Hostel I didn't need much persuading to check in there for the night. Very small, but also very friendly and a cosy atmosphere, Inverary Youth Hostel is an ideal stopover for any weary traveller. And, just up the road in town is The George Hotel, with a great bar and brilliant food - how could I resist?

Leaving Arran behind.

Stunning views and single track roads in Kintyre.

Tarbert.

Sunset over Loch Fyne at Inverary.

Day Four: Thursday 8 September 2011
It was drizzling when I left Inverary at about 9-30am, but by the time I had reached the foot of the long climb of 'Rest and be Thankful' it had stopped and things were warming up. The climb is about a thousand feet from the loch to the top, and not at all difficult. Just engage the 'granny gear' and plod your way up there! The rewards are the fantastic views from the top, followed by the very long descent down the other side into Glen Croe.
At the summit of the pass, my waterproof was back on as there was a very cool breeze blowing up there. A young couple in a very flashy Aston Martin Volante pulled up alongside me and my bike. I wasn't expecting much of a conversation with them, but they turned out to be very friendly, chatty, and down to earth - both cyclists themselves (I bet they have top of the range bikes too!). The young lady obliged by taking a photo of me - it's a change from just the bike in the photo I suppose.
I was soon down the other side and heading down the superb cycleway alongside Loch Lomond, sunshine and blue skies all the way! A brew stop amongst all the coach trippers at Luss and I was soon at my destination of Balloch and a rare treat - fish and chips! I spent some time afterwards chatting with a group of eight men doing Land's End to John o' Groats. They were fully supported with two vehicles and were travelling light and fast...ish. Their support crew had the kettle on for them and were dishing out flapjacks and Welshcakes - they proved to be a nice dessert after the fish and chips! Thanks chaps!
Balloch is a very touristy town with lots of B&Bs and just one campsite. They were asking £15 for me and my tiny little tent! When the average is £6 or £7 there was no way I was paying £15. Two pounds more and I had a comfortable bed for the night at the very impressive Loch Lomond Youth Hostel. I spoke with Three German men, an Irish couple, a Taiwanese man, two Canadian women, and one English woman that night. In fact she was the only other English person there! The hostel is an old country house with amazing views across the loch to Ben Lomond.

Resting and being thankful at 'Rest and be Thankful'

Seaplanes on Loch Lomond with Ben Lomond in the background.

Loch Lomond Youth Hostel

View from my window at Loch Lomond YH

Day Five: Friday 9 September 2011
I woke to a very different view of Loch Lomond this morning. In place of the sun and stunning views, it was a grey, misty view from my window. the Ben completely shrouded in cloud, and a steady drizzle falling
No rush today as my train was leaving Glasgow at 12-55pm and the ride is just around 22 miles - all traffic free. So at ten o'clock I left the hostel and crossed the busy A82 and straight onto the Loch Lomond Cycleway. I did venture off the trail at one stage to have some breakfast in Dumbarton - a good bacon and egg butty at a High Street cafe. From there it was easy going, taking my time along the banks of the Clyde, arriving in good time for the train. It proved to be a busy train journey with lots of Scots heading for Manchester airport - hardly room for my bike with all the suitcases stacked up in the carriage. Still, I couldn't complain - I had only paid £5.95 each way for this round trip of over 400 miles!
After another two hours sat in a damp patch I was back in Lancaster with just the 11 miles remaining to cycle home.